Replacing rear transmission mount on a Mk1 Golf

Replacing rear transmission mount on a Mk1 Golf

The rear transmission mount (like an engine mount) is located under the car on the transmission (driver's left) side near the base of the firewall. This is a rubber mount held between 2 metal brackets.

  • Approx. time: 45mins
  • Approx cost: $30 AUD

When to replace

  • Clunking noise when using clutch or accelerating quickly
  • Bad engine vibrations
  • Visible cracks in rubber

You'll need

  • Transmission mount (Part number: 171399151B)
  • Jack and jack stands
  • 17mm and 14mm socket
  • Loctite
  • WD40

Step 1 - Raise the car

I removed the wheel for visibility and ease of access. Before raising the car, loosen the lug nuts (but don't remove them).

Raise the driver's left side of the car. Use a jack stand, positioned at the jack point. Rock the car to check that the jack stand is positioned safely.

Remove the wheel completely.

Raise the car

Step 2 - Lubricate the nuts to be removed

Underneath the car, apply WD40 to the all nuts holding in the mount, but do not remove them yet.

There are 3 nuts facing downwards on a triangular wedge shaped metal brace attached to the chassis of the car - 2 of these nuts are bolted to the chassis, the third, closest to the front of the car, is attached to the rubber mount its self.

On the forward side of the rubber mount here are another 3 nuts attaching another metal brace to the transmission housing. These bolts are facing horizontally towards the the centre of the car.

Apply WD40 to loosen nuts

Step 3 - Use jack to support the transmission

You will need to use the car jack to support the transmission whilst the old mount is being removed. Don't raise the transmission, just use the jack to hold it in position.

Place a piece of wood on top of the jack to provide some cushioning and a larger surface area so that the transmission housing isn't damaged. It shouldn't get damaged easily, but it's a good idea to protect it a little.

Slide the jack in from the front of the car and raise it slowly so that it's firm against the transmission housing.

Step 4 - Remove the nuts on the chassis and transmission housing to remove the mount and brackets

Now that the WD40 has had time to do its work, undo the bolts holding the 2 brackets in place. These are all 17mm.

I removed the 3 downward facing chassis bolts first, including the one attached to the rubber mount, keeping an eye on the engine for any movement.

The metal, wedge shaped chassis bracket comes away in 1 piece, separated from the rubber mount.

Once the chassis bracket has been removed it's much easier to undo the transmission nuts from below the car and remove the 2nd metal bracket and rubber mount together as one.

Remove chassis bracket

Step 5 - Separate the rubber mount from the brackets

With the 2 brackets and mount removed from the car you can separate rubber mount from the bracket more easily.

There are 2 14mm nuts on one side, 1 17mm nut on the other.

Separated engine mount and brackets

Step 6 - Reassemble the mount and brackets

With the old mount removed you can reverse the above process with the new mount, attaching it to the transmission-side bracket.

I used Loctite Blue on the nuts.

Step 7 - Replace mount back on car

Attach the transmission bracket first, then the chassis bracket. The chassis bracket allows for some positioning before being secured. Note that the middle nut's inner diameter is slightly smaller than the others (though all nuts are 17mm).

Again, I used some Locitte Blue.

Finishing up

Once done, remove the jack and replace the wheel ensuring to only slightly tighten the lug nuts.

Once the car is back on the ground tighten the lug nuts completly.

Test drive, listen for any clunking noises and look for any engine movement when idling.

 

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