Replacing Fuel Filter

Replacing Fuel Filter

This is for the 1.8tl JH1 injected engine. The fuel filter is located under the bonnet near the battery and should be replaced at least evey 5 years (in regards to Australian fuel quality). 

  • Approx. time: 30mins
  • Approx. cost: $30 - $55AUD/$20 - $30USD/€10 - €20EUR

When to replace:

  • Approx. every 5 years.
  • If there may be debris in fuel lines.

You'll need

  • A new filter, eg Ryco Z311 or Kayser AK 11-LS. Note that SAAB 95s and Audi 100s share the same filter, so it might be easier to ask for ones that fit those cars.
  • 8mm, 17mm, 19mm spanners
  • Rags
  • Cup-sized container to catch dripping fuel
  • Maybe a rattle gun or breaker bar

 

Step 1 - Disconnect and remove the battery

It's a good idea to remove the battery when messing around with fuel lines, but in this case we need to get it out of the way anyway.

Step 2 - Loosen the banjo bolts on the exit (front facing) side

Warning - the fuel in this line may be under pressure. Use rags and container to catch dripping fuel.

This is the 17mm bolt. Loosen it off and allow the fuel trapped in the old filter to drain away into a receptacle. Be sure to mop up any spilt fuel.

Once the fuel is no longer dripping remove the banjo bolt making sure not to lose the 2 copper washers that are connected to it.

Fuel filter drain

Step 3 - Loosen the banjo bolts on the intake (rear facing) side

As above be aware of leaking or under-pressure fuel. In my case this bolt (19mm) was very stubborn and had to be removed with my electric rattle gun. I had to unstrap the filter (8mm) and pull it away from its bracket to get a good angle. Again be sure not to lose the 2 copper washers accompanying this bolt.

Step 4 - Unstrap filter

If you haven't already done this in the above steps unstrap the filter with by undoing the 8mm bolt. Be careful the bolt doesn't fall down into the engine bay.

Step 5 - Connect new filter

Basically the reverse of the above. I connected the 17mm first, then the 19mm, ensuring both were tight. I did this before strapping the filter in place so I could get good angles on each. I made sure to clean up any leaks or drips. Note I didn't re-strap the filter until after I tested.

Step 6 - Test and re-strap the filter

Reconnect the battery and with a friend watching for leaks, start the car. It make take a few revolutions for the fuel to be pumped through the new filter. Have your friend call out if they see leaks and immediately turn the car off (in my case I had a leak on the rear intake bolt. I ended up having to use the rattle gun again to tighten it.) If you have to re-tighten remove the battery again. Only after I was sure there were no more leaks did I re-strap the filter in place.

Clean up any spilt fuel, especially if it's around the battery.

 

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